Richard Juhlin (95)

The presentation is brilliant and is reminiscent of the house's legendary blanc de noirs Bollinger ’Vieilles Vignes Françaises’….. A Verzenay blanc de noirs with sprinkles of Aÿ, Bouzy and Tauxières, where 50% of the wine comes from 2015 with reserve wines on magnum dating from 2009. Verzenay and Aÿ are, as you know, the dominant villages in Bollinger's vintage wines. Verzenay is often the chalky and mineral-rich backbone of Bollinger's vintage build-up. The wine is vibrantly fresh, mineral-driven and extremely pure. There is a clarity and sharpness that is outstanding, where gunpowder notes and aroma of grilled meat develop as the glass warms up slightly. I love this wine as it is a perfect creation from one of the most important villages in the whole of Champagne dominated by the aforementioned minerality, but also with notes of violet and red grapefruit so typical of Verzenay of the highest class. On aeration the scent develops more and more notes of pears, figs and freshly baked baguette and the taste develops towards peach and apricot jam. Personally, though, I will wait as long as I can before opening my own bottles to get the increasing depth of caramel and grilled hazelnut flavour that only time in the cellar can provide.

Decanter (95)

Produced exclusively from vineyards owned by Bollinger, this takes advantage of the dynamic equilibrium between the structured, robust Pinot Noir grape and a terroir that is late-ripening. Picking began on 25 September and delivered a wine with plenty of concentration and impressive freshness and balance, with expressive green apple fruit accented with notes of toast and smoke and a creamy, supple, and open texture. Dosed at 6 g/l. Disgorged in November 2020.

Jancis Robinson (19)

Absolutely stunning nose – tangerine, truffle, sour cream, lemon sherbet. Has some reductive flinty notes too. A real showstopper, with spice and dairy notes persisting on the finish. Honeyed character too. Stellar.

James Suckling (99)

It's striking that is as fresh as it is given the ten years in the cellars. It has a fine citrus nose with plenty of lemons, grapefruit and yellow chalky notes, not to mention some lighter floral elements. The palate is super dry (dosage at 3-4g), and there's a silky, sherbet-like texture that makes this smooth fine and long. The citrus flavors give way to the surging acidity and the finish twists very slowly through to lightly toasted cashew nuts mingled with complex fruit and citrus flavors. Disgorged October 22, 2013.

Wine Enthusiast (98)

The wine's name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028.

Wine Enthusiast (98)

The wine's name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028.

Wine Enthusiast (98)

The wine's name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

James Suckling (99)

Amazing aromas of sweet uncooked pie crust with almonds. Then you smell dried apples, apricots and pineapple. Grilled fruits, too. Full-bodied. So tangy and energetic with sizzling acidity and creamy tannins. Flavorful and lightly oxidized at the finish. Smacking my lips. Agile. Ginger and spices. A touch of bitter complexity with some salinity. Extreme character that grabs your attention. 13 years and six months aging on the lees with cork. 3 grams dosage. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Don’t serve too cold. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (99)

Amazing aromas of sweet uncooked pie crust with almonds. Then you smell dried apples, apricots and pineapple. Grilled fruits, too. Full-bodied. So tangy and energetic with sizzling acidity and creamy tannins. Flavorful and lightly oxidized at the finish. Smacking my lips. Agile. Ginger and spices. A touch of bitter complexity with some salinity. Extreme character that grabs your attention. 13 years and six months aging on the lees with cork. 3 grams dosage. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Don’t serve too cold. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (99)

One of the pinnacles of this Champagne vintage, the 2004 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises—disgorged in 2012—has now stepped into its prime enjoyment window and unveils a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, exuding aromas reminiscent of candied tangerine zest, praline and beeswax, intricately mingling with aromas of spices and a subtle smokiness. On the palate, it is full-bodied with immense concentration and plenitude, layered and enveloping, yet exquisitely balanced, displaying remarkable depth supported by a spine of racy acids and culminating in a long, resonant finish. For all its power and profundity, it retains an effortless sense of completeness.

Richard Juhlin (98)

The world has about 3,000 bottles to fight off of this extraterrestrial nectar. I am delighted that they have dared to have 8 grams of sugar in its dosage this seductive vintage. From the beginning, my senses are bombarded by colossal impressive, magnificent and colorful impressions. The essence of inflated fruit is similar to a Beerenauslese from Rheingau as well as white and red Burgundy of the finest brand. Extremely drinkable from start in a similar style as the 1990 and 1989 back in the days. Personally, I am convinced that VVF has become even more concentrated and high-graded when the vineyard in Bouzy disappeared and we are dealing with 100% Aÿ. 2008 has all the conditions to become one of history's greatest. Until then, I'm delighted to enjoy this deliciously sensuous dainty bit which on the highest volume conveys notes of orange marmalade, honey, roses, honeysuckle, olive oil, tar, black truffle and cep mushroom in a unisoned golden symphony

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Vinous (97)

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.

Richard Juhlin (98-99)

Tasted prerelease with Denis Bunner when he just decided to add 6 grams of sugar. I have never tasted such a freshly disgorged VVF before and was really surprised by its bright color and lively character. Even more, I was surprised by its aromatic spectrum which in many parts reminded me of Coche-Dury's most beautiful creations from Meursault. This VVF shared its high-intensity petroleum bouquet and a really ultra-strong grilled, nutty and powdery aroma. Imagine that a pure Pinot Noir can remind you so much of Chardonnay. Added to this enormous bouquet is a fabulous freshness and pure fresh fruit where floral, yes almost citrus notes dance together with the grilled notes. A different and absolutely fantastic VVF that may become more classic from a purely stylistic perspective over time, but today it stands out as both fantastic and personally unique.

Wine Advocate (97)

A brilliant wine, Bollinger's 2013 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is finer boned and more elegant than the powerhouse 2008, but it is still one of the most powerful, intensely flavored wines produced in the region. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, baking spices, orange oil and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit girdled by racy acids. Concentrated and vinous, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2014 Bonalgue is ripe, racy and voluptuous, all of which make it pretty hard to resist. Dark red cherry, espresso, grilled herbs, French oak and menthol caress the palate. All the elements have come together beautifully in this overt, flamboyant yet midweight Pomerol. Silky tannins add to the wine’s early and medium-term appeal. Another year or two in bottle should help the oak integrate a bit further, but this will always be in a forward, giving style. Tasted two times.

The assortment case contains:

1x75cl Bond Vecina 2018 – 100 JD
1x75cl Bond Pluribus 2018 – 100 JD
1x75cl Bond Quella 2018 – 98 JD
1x75cl Bond St. Eden 2018 – 98 JD
1x75cl Bond Melbury 2018 – 97JD

The assortment case contains:

1x75cl Bond Vecina 2019 – 100 JD
1x75cl Bond Pluribus 2019 – 100 JD
1x75cl Bond Quella 2019 – 98 JD
1x75cl Bond St. Eden 2019 – 98 JD
1x75cl Bond Melbury 2019 – 97 JD

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97-100)

The 2018 Melbury is fabulous. Bright, punchy and full of character, the Melbury is so alluring in this tasting. Sweet floral notes, crushed red berry fruit, mint, spice and blood orange explode from the glass. Medium in body, silky and arresting in its beauty, the 2018 is spectacularly beautiful. In 2018, Melbury stands out for its understatement and total class. What a wine!

Vinous (99)

The 2018 Pluribus captures all of the savory, mineral intensity of this site on Spring Mountain. Searing tannins, once such a challenge here, are much more finessed than in the past. Crushed rocks, mint, blood orange, gravel, exotic spice and rose petal lend tremendous complexity as the Pluribus shows off its considerable allure. This taut, mountain Cabernet Sauvignon has so much to offer. Today, it is wonderfully complete and thrilling. Even so, the best is yet to come.

James Suckling (99)

This is so open and perfumed with blackcurrants, stone and conifer. Full-bodied with fine, velvety tannins that spread across the palate in a layered way. Wonderfully polished and powdered. Rather ethereal. Try this after 2027.

Wine Advocate (99)

The 2013 St. Eden is absolutely mind-blowing, with notes of blackcurrant liqueur and licorice as well as hints of Asian soy and lead pencil. Wonderful fruit that hits the palate with a cascade of glycerin, silky but noticeable tannins, and a big, earthy, rich, full-throttle, majestic finish of close to a minute add to this wine’s compelling personality. It should drink well for at least 30-40 years.

Wine Advocate (98+)

BOND’s 2009 Proprietary Blend Vecina, from Vine Hill Ranch, is fascinating to taste after the St. Eden. While the St. Eden is round and sensual, the Vecina is all about linear power and structure. Endowed with tremendous length and persistence, the Vecina presents endless layers of dark fruit and expressive aromatics supported by considerable tension and energy. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.

Wine Advocate (100)

The perfect 2013 Vecina offers up notes of pen ink, scorched earth, espresso, blackcurrant liqueur and blackberries. It is a fabulously great wine, with supple, well-integrated tannin, decent acidity, and a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, with extraordinary purity and richness. This is an amazing wine to drink over the next 50 years, although I would probably suggest cellaring for five or more at present.