Wine Advocate (100)

It's an historical wine, a one-off, semi-sweet white produced at the end of the Spanish Civil War, a wine impossible to replicate, fruit of impossible circumstances, a wine I've had the luck to drink and share with many people on a number of occasions and which never fails to impress everyone. The perfect 1939 CVNE Rioja Blanco Semi Dulce Corona is a mythical wine! 1939 saw the end of Spain's Civil War, and the country was upside down. There were some major battles fought in Rioja, and by the time they had to harvest the grapes, there were not enough men in the village. They must have focused on the best parcels, surely giving priority to red grapes. Some vineyards were overlooked, as happened with the whites that eventually produced this wine. These grapes were harvested extremely late, into November, close to December and their health was not optimal, they had developed some botrytis and were clearly rotten. The people in charge of making the wine surely didn't know about botrytis cynerea, or noble rot, and were surely afraid their grapes were rotten and they would not be able to produce any decent white. So they did the best they could, but the fermentation never finished completely and there was some residual sugar in the wine. So, as they did with all their wines, they put it in oak barrels to mature and kind of put it in a corner hoping nobody would notice its shortcomings. We have to realize that CVNE was already producing quite a lot of wine at the time, so it's not unusual to have a few stray barrels here or there that nobody pays attention to. What is not that normal is that the wine was REALLY forgotten and was "found" during a stock take for an audit in 1970! So the wine aged slowly in barrel for some 30 years! Once found, nobody saw any reason to keep the wine in barrel any longer, so they decided to bottle it. Not knowing quite what to do with it, the bottles were stacked somewhere and the same story was repeated, as the stash was forgotten and basically untouched until thirty something years later: thanks to the daughter of one of the family owners (the winery is still in the hand of the same family that created it back in 1879). The proud father had a vague idea about a somewhat sweet wine that could be served at his daughter's wedding and asked to get some bottles to taste. They uncorked it, tasted it and found a complex, subtle white with great balance between alcohol, acidity and a little bit of residual sugar (around 20 grams), which took the edge off the acidity and made the wine rounder, as old Viura can be too austere. The slow aging, first in an oxidative way during the years in oak provided some nuttiness, and spicy aromas, while the botrytis added some of those dry apricot, beeswax and pollen notes, hinting on honey, but also the long reductive period in bottle made it very elegant and polished, with infinite nuances of white pepper, quince, faint smoke, walnuts, petrol...This redefines complexity, elegance and slow aging. The palate is prodigious, with a gobsmacking (literally!) balance, pungent flavors, freshness, acidity, very faint sweetness and length like only something which has slowly evolved over 70 years can be. The aftertaste should not be measured in seconds, but in minutes, and the empty glass keeps changing and giving different tones for hours. If you leave a little bit in the bottle for the day after (yes, it's difficult, I know!) the wine is even better on the second day. There is no reason to believe that if the wine is as good as it is today it is not going to reach its one-hundredth birthday. The wine is mainly Viura, but there might have been a little bit of the white Garnacha Blanca in the blend. At this stage nobody really knows (or cares). This is simply otherworldly, superb, perfect wine, whose only improvement would come if they had bottled some magnums! A dream. A unique, historical wine. If there is a perfect white Rioja, this is surely it. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2039.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2011 Meursault is totally alive in the glass. Gunpowder, slate and green pear notes emerge from a wine that impresses for its pure energy and drive. Next to some of the other wines in the range, the 2011 is a bit rough around the edges, but there is no lack of conviction and personality. It will be interesting to see if bottle age softens some of the contours. Still, there is a lot to like here.

Vinous (93)

The 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru boasts a bouquet that stops you in your tracks. It is blessed with stunning delineation despite just a subtle reduction – traces of white chocolate and white truffles underlying the electrifying flint-like aromas. The palate is crisp and fresh, the warmth of that growing season imparting weight and presence to this Puligny-Montrachet, long and persistent with a hint of ginger towards the finish, completing a truly awesome Folatières. 1,455 bottles produced. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris.

An extraordinary vintage, the d'Auvenay Puligny-Montrachet En La Richarde 2009 teems with eloquent Burgundian finesse. Crafted under the watchful expertise of renowned winemaker Lalou Bize-Leroy, its origin is the cherished terroir of Puligny-Montrachet, nestled in the heart of Burgundy. This exquisite Chardonnay, produced in minuscule quantities, unveils complex layers of ripe fruit, pared beautifully alongside a seamless mineral backbone and finely honed acuity.

Benefiting from meticulous biodynamic farming, this wine matures in French oak barrels, with partial malolactic fermentation inducing a voluptuous creaminess. A superior expression of its vintage, it harmonises dazzling acidity with generous ripeness. The captivating intensity of the d'Auvenay Puligny-Montrachet En La Richarde 2009 truly delivers the epitome of elegance, setting a benchmark for white Burgundy. With a potential to evolve, this wine cements d'Auvenay as a much-coveted producer in the annals of fine wine.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (98)

What can I say about the 1921 Chateau d'Yquem ? It was a wine I will remember forever because it was a legendary wine served at the perfect moment, and that is all anyone can ask from a wine at this profound height of achievement.

Wine Spectator (96)

This leans toward the tropical side, with mango and guava notes out front, while maple, date, blood orange and citrus oil flavors fill in behind. The finish kicks into another gear, taking off with honeysuckle, orange blossom and frangipane accents. Has almost unbridled power today, while maintaining serious cut. A very impressive showing in a rather overlooked vintage.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Lift and richness and electrified raisins! There's a lot of energy here. Medicine? Sinewy. Not the sweetest.

Wine Advocate (94)

The 2000 Brut Millesime Amour de Deutz is a rare Blanc de Blancs made from vineyards in Mesnil (60%), Avize (35%) and Villers Marmery (5%) that the estate uses exclusively for charity events and/or gifts, which is a shame since that means only a few people will ever have an opportunity to taste it. The Amour de Deutz bursts from the glass with endless layers of mineral-infused fruit, showing marvelous intensity and richness. Pears, apples and flowers linger on the finish. Disgorged 12/10/2009. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.

Vinous (92)

(100% chardonnay grown in Le Mesnil, Avize and Villers-Marmery; disgorged October 12, 2011; LA109D29111): Bright yellow-gold. A heady, complex bouquet evokes dried citrus fruits, quince, white flowers and iodine, with a hint of truffle in the background. Shows both power and finesse, offering lively Meyer lemon, orange pith and fresh fig flavors. The floral quality builds with air and carries through a very long, mineral-accented finish.

Vinous - Neal Martin (93)

Limpid gold in color, the 2001 Doisy-Védrines offers beeswax, honeysuckle and quince jelly on the nose; hints of gingerbread emerge with time. The oak comes through a bit here, which is odd after two decades. The palate is vibrant and tensile on the entry, delivering the weight one expects from this Barsac, allied with a fine bead of acidity that imparts tension. Tangy marmalade and quince notes appear toward the finish. This is a fine Doisy-Védrines that is à point.

Jancis Robinson (20)

Magnum disgorged 1981 for the royal wedding. Pale amber. Amazingly it smells like Dom Pérignon. Notes of putty! Excellent mousse – hugely lively. You would really think this was decades younger than it is. Extraordinary. Lemony. Dry on the finish, but wonderfully vital, well-balanced fruit and autolysis on the mid palate.

Vinous (97)

Dom Pérignon’s 1964 is another stunner. Wow. Here it is the wine’s detail and precision that really stand out. Hints of smoke and slate add nuance, but that is selling this majestic Champagne short. The 1964 is a wine to drink and simply enjoy for the pure pleasure it provides, without thinking too much.

Vinous (96)

The 1966 Dom Pérignon (Original Release) is absolutely gorgeous. Soft, open-knit and sensual, the 1966 is utterly sublime, with plenty of the orange peel, coffee, hazelnut, chamomile and dried flower nuances that are typical of mature Dom Pérignon, especially during this era. Gently mellowed by the passage of time, the 1996 is now at peak.

Vinous (97)

This bottle of 1971 Dom Pérignon, the second that I have tasted, was an original disgorgement and slightly paler than the Cristal 1971 served alongside. It has a devastatingly gorgeous bouquet, intoxicating from the get-go: grilled walnuts, dried honey and even a hint of marmalade, all delivered with exceptional delineation. The palate is beautifully balanced with perfect acidity. There are subtle notes of citrus peel, mandarin, crushed stone and honeysuckle, though these are discrete. It is rather the tension and precision that elevates this magnificent Champagne. Tasted at Christies/Fine Wine Experience 1971 dinner.

Wine Spectator (90)

A steely, full-bodied and complete Champagne, showing a touch of honey, cedar, butter and spice. Has fruit and lime flavors, with a long finish.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97)

Both 1982 Champagnes are utterly spellbinding. It is amazing to taste these wines at 30 years of age and see that their signatures are all very much intact. Of course, the magnum format is so ideal for Champagne. The 1982 Krug Vintage is warm, toasty and totally expressive, with gorgeous exotic orange peel and white truffle overtones. This is one of my very favorite Krug vintages. Although fully mature, the 1982 is going to continue to develop at a glacial pace. The 1982 Dom Pérignon is just a little more focused and vibrant in style. Here it is the wine’s salivating minerality that really sings. It, too, is quite youthful and vibrant for its age. What a flight.