Vinous (93)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru, which was bottled earlier than the Champans, has an intense nose of black cherries, blueberry, seaweed and iodine. The palate continues that theme: saline on the entry, dense and grippy, and very nicely focused with a lively, lightly spiced finish. Real succulence here, and very good persistence; the elegance is only apparent after the wine is slipping down the throat. 

Vinous (92-94)

The 2019 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises four barrels, of which one is new. It has a charming, well-defined and very pure bouquet of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit laced with crushed stone. The palate is silky-smooth right from the start, very cohesive and displaying a fine bead of acidity; it actually reminds me of Michel Lafarge in style. This will be utterly seductive.

Vinous (94)

The 2017 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru was opened by Dominique Lafon just because he wanted to compare with the ensuing two vintages. Who was I to stop him? It is very different in style from those vintages: redder fruit, more transparency, charming, and it wears its heart on its sleeve. The palate is full of slightly peppery red berry fruit, saline and spicy with good grip and a long raspberry and wild strawberry finish. So unbelievably drinkable, even at this early stage you’ll finish bottle.  

Vinous - Neal Martin (94-96)

The 2018 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru has the most intense bouquet of Dominique Lafon’s Volnays this year, intense black cherry scents intermingling with boysenberry and light cassis aromas, all delivered with the utmost detail. The palate offers black cherry and raspberry fruit infused with violets, very fine tannins and gentle grip. The silky-smooth finish fans out gloriously. Stunning.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2019 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru, matured in a little more new oak than the Clos des Chênes (around one-third, according to Lafon), offers a quintessential Santenots nose of almost brazen blueberry and cassis aromas mixed with raspberry and violets. The palate is rounded on the entry and exerts a gentle grip. Opulent but controlled, though this year I find more nuance and sensuality on the Champans, which would be my pick of Lafon’s reds. 

Hailing from the esteemed terroirs of Burgundy, Cottenceau Montagny 1er Cru Les Vignes longues 2020 is a testament to exceptional winemaking prowess. Crafted by renowned vintner Cottenceau, this first-class single vineyard wine encapsulates the heart of Montagny's unique climate and soil structure. The meticulous traditional winemaking techniques employed yield a dynamic wine with delightful longevity.

Each grape is hand-harvested from old Chardonnay vines in the Les Vignes longues plot, ensuring maximum concentration of flavour. The 2020 vintage sports exquisite complexity adorned by a blend of citrus and mineral notes balanced with a subtle undertone of oak, owing to the wine’s partial maturation in French barrique barrels.

The Cottenceau Montagny 1er Cru Les Vignes longues 2020 is a prestigious embodiment of sublime quality and artisanal mastery. It is eagerly anticipated by connoisseurs, thus serving as an indisputable signature of fine tasteful indulgence from the coveted slopes of Montagny.

Vinous (93)

The 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru boasts a bouquet that stops you in your tracks. It is blessed with stunning delineation despite just a subtle reduction – traces of white chocolate and white truffles underlying the electrifying flint-like aromas. The palate is crisp and fresh, the warmth of that growing season imparting weight and presence to this Puligny-Montrachet, long and persistent with a hint of ginger towards the finish, completing a truly awesome Folatières. 1,455 bottles produced. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris.

Indulge in the exquisite d'Auvenay Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 2004. Hailing from the prestigious French vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet, it's cultivated under the seasoned stewardship of Domaine d'Auvenay. Acute attention to detail ensures only the finest Chardonnay grapes are harvested, manifesting an unmatchable portrayal of Burgundy's celebrated terroir. This 2004 vintage encompasses the winery's diligent commitment, exhibiting a golden hue, elegant minerality, and voluptuous notes of exotic fruit layered with hints of caramel and honey.

Maturation in new oak barrels bestows a refined complexity and depth to this splendid wine. Acclaimed wine critic, Robert Parker, celebrates its beautifully balanced acidity, identifying it as one of the exceptional offerings from Domaine d'Auvenay. The d'Auvenay Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 2004 saturates the palate with a lasting impression, exuding an undeniably rich and enticing allure. A spectacular addition to any discerning wine aficionado's collection.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2018 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru comes from iron-rich clayey soils and contains two-thirds whole cluster this year. It has a lovely bouquet of red berry fruit laced with slate and bay leaf aromas, very well defined and absorbing the 25% new oak easily. The palate is well balanced with a mineral-rich entry, a fine bead of acidity and touches of brown spice sprinkled over the red fruit. The stony, terse finish indicates that it could age for longer than many will grant it.

Vinous (93)

The 2011 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru feels clean and pure on the nose, elegant rather than powerful with brambly red berry fruit, undergrowth, chestnut and sage developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, clean raspberry and wild strawberry with fine tannin all the way to the finish, especially for a Pommard. It fans out with confidence at the end, completing an accomplished Les Rugiens. Tasted at Flint Wines Burgundy 2011 tasting.

Vinous (92)

Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Sexy perfume of raspberry, Asian spices, dried flowers, sandalwood and gentian root opened nicely in the glass. Spicy, fine-grained and vibrant on the palate; not especially sweet or fleshy but surprisingly fresh and easy to drink, showing lovely ripe acidity and excellent retention of fruit. This may not have the thickness of today's Mortet wines but it's just entering its plane of peak maturity. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and terrific spicy length. Arnaud Mortet noted that his father Denis aged this wine entirely in new oak.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (88-91)

Red-ruby. Reticent nose hints at coffee and sweet oak. Locked up tight today and revealing very little personality. I don't get a lot of sweetness here. Finishes with noteworthy persistence but today the tannins dominate. Seems clearly less successful than the Champeaux.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru contains 30% whole bunch with 50% new oak. It has a vibrant, tightly wound bouquet with wet limestone/petrichor scents complementing the shimmering black cherry and orange zest scents. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannins, fine acidity, veering more towards the red fruit profile with a pinch of brown spices on the finish. Long in the mouth, very classy.

Vinous (89)

(a blend from the second harvest of the estate's various vineyards; Villaine noted that the '99 version of this wine did not include the second harvest from Romanee-Conti) Good full red. Fruit-driven aromas of plum and spice. Perfumed and sweet in the mouth, with an enticing spiciness but without quite the fine grain and density of texture of the estate's other wines. With a bit less volume, this conveys an impression of stronger acidity, even if the numbers don't show it.

Jancis Robinson (16)

This is the wine made from the results of a second passage through DRC’s Grands Crus, a week after the main harvest, which tends to be from the younger vines in the older vineyards. (It was also made in 1999, 2002, 2004 and 2006. ‘We make this wine only when we think it can announce the vintage,’ Aubert de Villiaine said, adding, ‘I’m equivocal about bottling it. There’s good fruit but it’s far from full.’) Very light, fresh nose but nothing like the usual DRC weight. Pretty but a little bit skinny.

Vinous (90)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 1er Cru was cropped at 18.8hL/ha. It is slightly deeper in color compared to other vintages. It has a precocious and pure bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and just a touch of peony. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry, high-toned with a light spicy element emerging with time. This is one of the most outgoing Duvault-Blochets that I have encountered. There's more blueberry fruit, almost pastille-like, towards the finish. Joyous but it leaves the cerebral aspects of Pinot Noir to its fellow cuvées. 679 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow's tasting in London.

Vinous (90)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 1er Cru was cropped at 18.8hL/ha. It is slightly deeper in color compared to other vintages. It has a precocious and pure bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and just a touch of peony. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry, high-toned with a light spicy element emerging with time. This is one of the most outgoing Duvault-Blochets that I have encountered. There's more blueberry fruit, almost pastille-like, towards the finish. Joyous but it leaves the cerebral aspects of Pinot Noir to its fellow cuvées. 679 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow's tasting in London.

Vinous (91-94)

Bright ruby-red. Lovely pure aromas of dark raspberry, black cherry, minerals and flowers. Rich and layered but at the same time juicy, precise and penetrating, with enticing dark fruit and mineral flavors and a Vosne-like suppleness of texture. Finishes with superb, perfumed length, with sweet, fine tannins and vibrant, harmonious acidity. A great vintage for this cuvee

Vinous (93+)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, dark chocolate and minerals, with a slightly grilled quality; like a more intense, urgent version of the Genaivrieres. Very ripe but closed in the mouth, with a superb sappy sweetness and a hint of marzipan. Offers impressive fat and texture, with harmonious framing acidity. Finishes very long, with firm but suave tannins and lingering notes of spices and minerals.

Vinous (92+)

Bright red. Aromas of red berries, violet, smoke, truffle and earth. Sweet and lush in the mouth; very rich but less expressive today than on the nose. This will age more on its strong but even tannins than on its acids. Doesn't offer quite the snap of the Beaux-Monts though.

Vinous (97)

The 1990 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes 1er Cru is an absolutely sensational wine that boasts astonishing detail on the nose, unbelievably fresh considering the warmth of the growing season, the stem addition completely subsumed. Hints of sage and oregano are discretely embroidered into the black fruit, later some gorgeous loam-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, perfect acidity and with just a pinch of black pepper seasoning the black fruit. This is not just well balanced, but conveys an unerring sense of symmetry that leaves you awestruck. With aeration I notice more fruit and just a hint of balsamic towards the finish. Brilliant. Tasted at Tour d’Argent restaurant in Paris.

Vinous (90+)

Good deep, bright red. Liqueur-like aromas of maraschino cherry, mint and soy sauce. Suave on entry, then tangy in the middle palate, offering complex flavors of red fruits, spices and mint. Finishes with a serious tannic spine that gives this wine a youthful austerity. I find a captivating savory character reminiscent of mushroom umami from the nose straight through to the aftertaste. Lay this one down for at least six or seven years.

Wine Enthusiast (93)

All the proper structure of young Gevrey-Chambertin with the addition of rich, generous fruit. The core is of wood and dry fruit tannins, the fruit of rich black plum juice. At this stage, the wine is firm. Give it 5-6 years to open up.

Vinous (91+)

Captivating aromas of pristine red fruits, minerals and underbrush, plus a whiff of porcini. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, with terrific high-pitched precision to the red raspberry and cherry flavors. Lovely cut here, as well as a tannic spine that calls for four or five years of aging. Jeremy Seysses noted that with the estate's clonal material, their grapes are riper. We start pulling leaves on the north side of the vines not long after the flowering, and we get thicker skins, he told me, adding that the estate's 2011s are tannic wines.

Jancis Robinson (17)

In hot vintages this site does not show the heat that much (13.2% approx). Barrel samples. Sample 1: from a new barrel racked to a new barrel (thus not representative of the finished wine) Deep and rich in dark-red fruit. Peppery, spicy and creamy too. But a bit dry on the finish because of the new oak. Sample 2: from a different barrel More open on the nose, still lovely dark and lifted fruit. More peppery. Juicier and more aromatic. Great finesse both in the fruit and the tannins. Super-elegant and while it has 2018’s characteristic dark fruit, it has 2017 freshness and finesse.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Monts Luisants Blanc 1er Cru has such a pretty aromas with lemon thyme and lemon verbena aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy, quince-tinged opening matched with a fine bead of acidity. Whereas the Morey Village Blanc remains quite linear, this gently fans out on its pure orange pith and apricot-tinged finish. Maybe not a long-term Monts Luisants, yet it will certainly given much drinking fulfilment over the following decade.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (91-94)

(this had recently been racked and sulfited) Good deep red. Pure aromas of musky wild strawberry and brown spices. Sweet, lush and harmonious, with captivating flavors of tangy strawberry and soft spices. Really caresses the palate. Finishes with subtle persistence and sweet, fine tannins. A superb showing.

Wine Advocate (94)

Both more concentrated and more introverted than the preceding Beaux Monts, Dujac's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts opens in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, orange rind, smoked duck and peonies. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and elegantly muscular, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and mouthwatering acids, concluding with a perfumed finish.