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Wine Advocate (98)
The 2021 El Tamboril Tinto felt closed and austere like no other wine from the portfolio. This single vineyard from the village of Navatalgordo, the most austere and cold of the villages where they work, is also the highest altitude where they work. After years of working the vineyard, they were able to buy it in 2021; and in 2022, they made even bigger changes in the viticulture (they put in individual sticks for each vine). At 1,200 meters above sea level, this is the coldest place in the coldest vintage, and the soils are as rocky and mineral as it gets. This is a serious and mineral red with a moderate 13.5% alcohol, great freshness and acidity and a palate with very fine, chalky, Barolo-like tannins that make you salivate. It should develop in bottle for a loooooong time. 1,3,42 bottles were filled in April 2023.保税价格￥ 6,800.00 -
Wine Advocate (93)
The 2019 La Bruja de Rozas was one of the few 2019s already bottled when I tasted the whole range in November 2020. This is a village Garnacha from Las Rozas de Puerto Real, their first approach to the grape, trying to capture the essence of the fresh fruit and the fluidity of the wine. 2019 is a ripe vintage, and the wine is a little more powerful, juicy and balanced, with rich aromas and flavors. It comes from different plots of old vines ranging from 40 to 65 years of age and planted at some 900 meters in altitude on sandy granite soils in a zone that has plenty of rain, averaging 800 liters per year. Like all of their vineyards, these plots are worked organically and biodynamically. Each vineyard fermented separately in oak vats with indigenous yeasts with a soft maceration. The wine matured in oak vats of different sizes, ranging from 1,500 to 6,000 liters. The 2019 effect seems to be quite mild here; the wine follows the profile of the 2018, despite being a little riper, and it's still very balanced. There are notes of flowers, basil and a touch of bacon intermixed with the wild berries and herbs. There's a little more concentration, and the tannins are a little chalkier and more austere. But there is no excess ripeness or anything out of place, and it has acidity and length and finishes dry and mineral. 41,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2020.保税价格￥ 1,795.00 -
Wine Advocate (94)
The first red to be bottled and sold is the 2020 La Bruja de Rozas, which feels a little more reductive this year. The grapes were picked before the torrential rains, so the wine shows a little riper than the wines that were picked after (the single vineyards). It's flinty and with a note of struck match, with good ripeness at 14.5% alcohol. This is always aromatic and floral, pale and surprisingly ethereal and expressive, a very pleasant and surprising wine that tends to please most people. This is the wine that I buy in volume, as it's a superb introduction to the Comando G portfolio and style at a very good price. Even though the nose is never short of spectacular, to me the signature here is the super fine grainy tannins from the decomposed granite soils. This goes back to the freshness of 2016 and 2018, perhaps a little rounder and less herbal, somewhere in between the two vintages. 43,175 bottles were filled in late August and early September 2021.保税价格￥ 1,250.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
The 2021 La Bruja de Rozas is their edgiest and most austere mineral and soil-driven version of their entry-level red. It's herbal, with no concession for fruit, and it has electricity and grip. It's a good preview of what's to come from 2021. It has a lot of 2018 and 2016 characteristics, a cool summer, a year with rain and even some during harvest that complicated matters and made them lose some grapes, but there's more grip, more minerality, more depth, layers and subtleness. It needs time in the glass, and my guess is that at age eight it's going to reach an outstanding level. A grown-up Bruja, it’s more for soil fanatics than the general public, and it’s one to lay down in your cellar (by the case) while you drink your 2020s. There were 55,184 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.保税价格￥ 1,815.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
I have never seen an herbal and peppery nose in a wine from Las Iruelas like the 2021 Las Iruelas; more specifically, it has a pungent note redolent of the Basque chili pepper "piparra," with wild strawberries, white peppercorns and capers, reflecting a very cold year. It's the expression of the slatish soils in a cold Mediterranean environment in a cold year. It has a pale and more developed color, it's narrow, it makes you salivate and it's super aromatic and expressive, floral, delicate and ultra mineral; it smells like crushed stones. This is the only wine from the village of El Tiemblo, one of two on slate soils in 2021 and the only one on slate from 2022, as 2022 was the last vintage of El Reventón, the other wine from slate. This was bottled later; they kept it in concrete for four or five extra months because the wine was a little reduced. It should be very long lived. 2,657 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2023.保税价格￥ 3,880.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2022 Navatalgordo, a village red from the village of the same name, is one of two completely new village wines from 2022, as the one from Rozas is an evolution of the Rozas 1er Cru. This was produced to reflect the character of the village, showcasing wines with tension and sharpness. It comes from soils with lots of quartz and was made with their own grapes and ones purchased from growers that have been working together with them at an average 1,100 meters in altitude. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and oak vats with 35- to 40-day maceration, and its élevage was in concrete and oak foudres. This village produces wines with lower alcohol, lower pH and higher acidity, even in warmer years like 2022. And the wine has more color, even if the alcohol is lower, from the cold. It's a wine that needs more time, more Barolo with a chalky character and slow development. It has a very floral and expressive nose, with electric acidity, and is tense, serious. This is the 2022 that feels less like 2022... Only with time in the glass did it develop some meaty aromas (Bovril?) and spiciness, which pointed at a warmer year and more Gevrey character. It has a contained 13% alcohol and a pH of around 3.0! Incredible parameters for a year like 2022. 11,047 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023. Only a little sulfur was added at bottling time, never before, as they feel the profile of the wine is more apt to work without added sulfur.保税价格￥ 3,625.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2022 Navatalgordo, a village red from the village of the same name, is one of two completely new village wines from 2022, as the one from Rozas is an evolution of the Rozas 1er Cru. This was produced to reflect the character of the village, showcasing wines with tension and sharpness. It comes from soils with lots of quartz and was made with their own grapes and ones purchased from growers that have been working together with them at an average 1,100 meters in altitude. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and oak vats with 35- to 40-day maceration, and its élevage was in concrete and oak foudres. This village produces wines with lower alcohol, lower pH and higher acidity, even in warmer years like 2022. And the wine has more color, even if the alcohol is lower, from the cold. It's a wine that needs more time, more Barolo with a chalky character and slow development. It has a very floral and expressive nose, with electric acidity, and is tense, serious. This is the 2022 that feels less like 2022... Only with time in the glass did it develop some meaty aromas (Bovril?) and spiciness, which pointed at a warmer year and more Gevrey character. It has a contained 13% alcohol and a pH of around 3.0! Incredible parameters for a year like 2022. 11,047 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023. Only a little sulfur was added at bottling time, never before, as they feel the profile of the wine is more apt to work without added sulfur.保税价格￥ 2,005.00 -
Vinous (95)
The 2021 Rozas 1er Cru is 100% Garnacha from a Vino de Paraje in Valle Sur, Sierra de Gredos. Fermented with whole clusters, it presents sour cherry, herbal tones, orange peel and a touch of cherry over a delicate profile. A hint of chocolate-orange emerges with air. Grippy yet delicate, it has a lightly aqueous feel and a touch of fruit, gaining depth and definition on the finish. This modern red avoids the region’s sun-driven style in favor of varietal expression.保税价格￥ 2,025.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
The Rozas 1er Cru has a slight change in 2022 and turned into a village wine, the 2022 Rozas. They selected the best five vineyards that used to go to the Rozas 1er Cru, vineyards they have worked since 2012. In this warmer vintage, they did a softer vinification, with less maceration and more fermentation without skins, to avoid over-ripeness and notes of black fruit in the wine. It has more fruit and some silty tannins, which are more like Italian tannins in the more Mediterranean years like this 2022. This village is more subject to the changes in the years, with more herbal and ethereal notes in the wines in cooler years and juicier and with more marked tannins in the warmer ones. It has 14.5% alcohol and is more jovial, definitely not banal. 10,992 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023.保税价格￥ 2,130.00 -
保税价格￥ 7,560.00 -
Wine Advocate (99)
The pale, delicate and ethereal 2021 Tumba del Rey Moro feels more austere than any other vintage of this single-vineyard wine. It comes from vines at 1,100 meters above sea level on granite soils in the village of Villanueva de Ávila and has a notable absence of fruit. Instead, it's mineral and floral, with subtle herbal notes ("piparra" peppers again!). It was harvested around the 12th of October, and by that time, the grapes had had a full development of aromas and flavors. The wine finished with 14% alcohol but with gobsmacking balance and freshness. The alcohol is not noticeable, a constant across the portfolio. The nose was shy at first and took time to develop, but when it did, it was layered and complex, with more Burgundian floral notes. The palate is super austere with lots of energy, reminiscent of liquid granite, with grip and light. It's a sharp vintage of Tumba del Rey Moro. 1,712 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2023.保税价格￥ 3,085.00 -
保税价格￥ 2,285.00 -
Wine Advocate (95)
The 2018 Viña del Olivo comes from a plot planted in 1980 that has different soils from the rest of the property, which is mostly alluvial. Here, the soils are composed of clay and limestone. It's 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, which fermented in 1,000-liter French oak vats followed by 16 months in barrel and a further three months in oak vats. This is raw and young, but it's already been released because the wine sells like hot cakes. It's marked by the toasted barrels and has all the baby fat it needs to be rendered invisible with time in bottle. It has very good freshness and round and sophisticated tannins with purity of fruit and finesse. 13,640 bottles and some larger formats. It was bottled in April 2020.保税价格￥ 2,220.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (99)
Well, well, well. This is one of the best wines of an outstanding vintage, demonstrating that this warm Rioja Alavesa site performs best in cooler vintages. It's a wine that oozes quality from the first sniff, all blackcurrant leaf, coffee bean and wild herbs, leading into a palate of mocha, plum and blackberry. The palate is refined, polished and beautifully freighted, marrying Tempranillo, 15% Graciano and 5% each of Mazuelo and Garnacha to (near) perfection. I can't recall a better wine from the estate. Bravo!保税价格￥ 3,085.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (99)
Well, well, well. This is one of the best wines of an outstanding vintage, demonstrating that this warm Rioja Alavesa site performs best in cooler vintages. It's a wine that oozes quality from the first sniff, all blackcurrant leaf, coffee bean and wild herbs, leading into a palate of mocha, plum and blackberry. The palate is refined, polished and beautifully freighted, marrying Tempranillo, 15% Graciano and 5% each of Mazuelo and Garnacha to (near) perfection. I can't recall a better wine from the estate. Bravo!保税价格￥ 2,945.00 -
(6x75cl) 2019Tim Atkin MW (93)
Contino’s Garnacha is sourced from four different plots on the estate, planted between 1940 and 1980. Once upon a time, the fruit was used for the Gran Reserva blend, but has gone into a stand-alone wine since 2008. Picked early and aged in larger oak containers, this is a bright, textured, refreshing style with bramble and summer pudding fruit flavours.保税价格￥ 1,149.00 -
James Suckling (98)
This is very Asian with black tea, mushroom and bark aromas, and ripe fruit undertones. Full body, round and polished. Edgy structure with blackberry, mushroom skin and cedar. Fantastic finish. Just a baby. Stock up for the cellar. Better in 2020 but already excellent.保税价格￥ 2,975.00 -
James Suckling (97)
This is so powerful and tightly wound with so much intensity and power. Full body. Crushed berries and hints of walnuts and cedar. Purity in fruit. Very subtle character, but great tension and richness. Drink after 2021.保税价格￥ 1,120.00 -
James Suckling (95)
Black cherries with cedar and dried flowers, as well as dusty earth. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm tannins that are long and polished. Lots of structure. Very typical and focused. Drinkable now, but better in 2024.保税价格￥ 1,270.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
It's an historical wine, a one-off, semi-sweet white produced at the end of the Spanish Civil War, a wine impossible to replicate, fruit of impossible circumstances, a wine I've had the luck to drink and share with many people on a number of occasions and which never fails to impress everyone. The perfect 1939 CVNE Rioja Blanco Semi Dulce Corona is a mythical wine! 1939 saw the end of Spain's Civil War, and the country was upside down. There were some major battles fought in Rioja, and by the time they had to harvest the grapes, there were not enough men in the village. They must have focused on the best parcels, surely giving priority to red grapes. Some vineyards were overlooked, as happened with the whites that eventually produced this wine. These grapes were harvested extremely late, into November, close to December and their health was not optimal, they had developed some botrytis and were clearly rotten. The people in charge of making the wine surely didn't know about botrytis cynerea, or noble rot, and were surely afraid their grapes were rotten and they would not be able to produce any decent white. So they did the best they could, but the fermentation never finished completely and there was some residual sugar in the wine. So, as they did with all their wines, they put it in oak barrels to mature and kind of put it in a corner hoping nobody would notice its shortcomings. We have to realize that CVNE was already producing quite a lot of wine at the time, so it's not unusual to have a few stray barrels here or there that nobody pays attention to. What is not that normal is that the wine was REALLY forgotten and was "found" during a stock take for an audit in 1970! So the wine aged slowly in barrel for some 30 years! Once found, nobody saw any reason to keep the wine in barrel any longer, so they decided to bottle it. Not knowing quite what to do with it, the bottles were stacked somewhere and the same story was repeated, as the stash was forgotten and basically untouched until thirty something years later: thanks to the daughter of one of the family owners (the winery is still in the hand of the same family that created it back in 1879). The proud father had a vague idea about a somewhat sweet wine that could be served at his daughter's wedding and asked to get some bottles to taste. They uncorked it, tasted it and found a complex, subtle white with great balance between alcohol, acidity and a little bit of residual sugar (around 20 grams), which took the edge off the acidity and made the wine rounder, as old Viura can be too austere. The slow aging, first in an oxidative way during the years in oak provided some nuttiness, and spicy aromas, while the botrytis added some of those dry apricot, beeswax and pollen notes, hinting on honey, but also the long reductive period in bottle made it very elegant and polished, with infinite nuances of white pepper, quince, faint smoke, walnuts, petrol...This redefines complexity, elegance and slow aging. The palate is prodigious, with a gobsmacking (literally!) balance, pungent flavors, freshness, acidity, very faint sweetness and length like only something which has slowly evolved over 70 years can be. The aftertaste should not be measured in seconds, but in minutes, and the empty glass keeps changing and giving different tones for hours. If you leave a little bit in the bottle for the day after (yes, it's difficult, I know!) the wine is even better on the second day. There is no reason to believe that if the wine is as good as it is today it is not going to reach its one-hundredth birthday. The wine is mainly Viura, but there might have been a little bit of the white Garnacha Blanca in the blend. At this stage nobody really knows (or cares). This is simply otherworldly, superb, perfect wine, whose only improvement would come if they had bottled some magnums! A dream. A unique, historical wine. If there is a perfect white Rioja, this is surely it. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2039.保税价格￥ 8,600.00 -
Wine Advocate (93+)
The 2007 Imperial Gran Reserva is again a great wine in the making. Red fruit and plenty of spices (nutmeg), the palate shows great acidity and abundant tannins that need resolving with time in bottle. Great tension and nerve. I think it will take some time to be released, which is good as it will require some patience. Drink 2016-2021.保税价格￥ 3,185.00 -
Wine Enthusiast (95)
Certain wines exude a sense of elevated excellence. This one gets to that level via aromas of spice cake, baked plum and tobacco aromas. A stocky saturated palate is structured and built to age, while this tastes of cool blue fruits, herbs, coffee and chocolate. A smoothly textured finish deals cocoa and mocha notes. Drink through 2040.保税价格￥ 2,495.00 -
Wine Enthusiast (97)
This is a fabulous gran reserva from a very good but lightly heralded vintage. Aromas of spiced plum, black olive, fig, tobacco and cassis come together like a puzzle. A deep, pure palate shows near-perfect balance, while this tastes of plum, berry fruits and earthy spice. Smooth, elegant and chocolaty on the finish, this delivers all one can ask for from Rioja. Drink through 2035.保税价格￥ 2,125.00 -
Wine Enthusiast (97)
This is a fabulous gran reserva from a very good but lightly heralded vintage. Aromas of spiced plum, black olive, fig, tobacco and cassis come together like a puzzle. A deep, pure palate shows near-perfect balance, while this tastes of plum, berry fruits and earthy spice. Smooth, elegant and chocolaty on the finish, this delivers all one can ask for from Rioja. Drink through 2035.保税价格￥ 3,295.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (97)
This comes from vineyards in Villalba, Briones and Torremontalbo and is another brilliant release from María Larrea. Savoury, sweet and well balanced, with 15% Graciano adding extra backbone and the zest that you expect from this special red保税价格￥ 2,025.00 -
Tim Atkin MW (97)
This comes from vineyards in Villalba, Briones and Torremontalbo and is another brilliant release from María Larrea. Savoury, sweet and well balanced, with 15% Graciano adding extra backbone and the zest that you expect from this special red保税价格￥ 2,050.00 -
Vinous (94)
Shimmering ruby-red. An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry cola, cassis, licorice and smoky oak; floral and vanilla qualities emerge in the glass. Juicy, penetrating red and dark fruit flavors are given spine by a core of tangy acidity, and bitter chocolate, candied rose and spicecake nuances develop with air. Gently gripping tannins add shape to an impressively long, incisive finish that leaves more vanilla and cherry notes behind. Raised for 22 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels.保税价格￥ 2,375.00 -
James Suckling (97)
This is very ripe with blackberries, dried fruit, toasted oak and black licorice on the nose. Full-bodied with ultra-fine, linear tannins and a racy, refined finish. This has fantastic structure and length. It goes on for minutes. It needs time to open and refine even more. One of the best Imperiale Gran Reservas in a very long time. Drink after 2023.保税价格￥ 2,220.00 -
James Suckling (97)
This is very ripe with blackberries, dried fruit, toasted oak and black licorice on the nose. Full-bodied with ultra-fine, linear tannins and a racy, refined finish. This has fantastic structure and length. It goes on for minutes. It needs time to open and refine even more. One of the best Imperiale Gran Reservas in a very long time. Drink after 2023.保税价格￥ 1,860.00 -
James Suckling (98)
Polished and structured with firm, very fine tannins. Lots going on here, with layers of black fruit, dried spices, graphite, coconut and cracked pepper. Full-bodied and so intense. Keeps going. Long. The tannins are so fine and so numerous. One of the greatest modern gran reservas. 85% tempranillo, 10% graciano and 5% mazuelo. Try in 2025.保税价格￥ 1,925.00
While Rioja is still the region that springs to mind for most consumers when thinking about Spain, wines from other regions are slowly yet assertively making themselves known. There are the dark, arresting wines of Priorat, the crisp, apply whites made from the Godello grape, the often almost Burgundian Ruedas, the ‘cult’ wines like Vega Sicilia… not just rustic, oxidative wines any longer, but rather intriguing and individual vinous experiences.
