A Tribute to Madame Lilly Bollinger | Bollinger R. D. 2007
A Tribute to Madame Lilly Bollinger | Bollinger R. D. 2007
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Matthew Jukes (19+)
The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.保税价格￥ 6,030.00
Famously James Bond's favourite Champagne, Bollinger R. D. is an icon that transcends the world of fine wine. The tête de cuvée of this Grande Marque Champagne house that has been distinguished for the elegance and complexity of its wines since its founding in 1829, it is always a firm favourite of drinkers, collectors and investors alike.
Released today, the Bollinger R. D. 2007 may well be the best vintage ever. Outscoring the renowned 96 point 2002 vintage, the 2007 scores a massive double 97 points from Vinous's Antonio Galloni and the Wine Advocate's William Kelley. 'Superb' in the eyes of Galloni, the quality is particularly remarkable in 2007 but the Bollinger R. D. also differs in style with this release.
Normally one of the more muscular prestige cuvées in Champagne, due to its large percentage of Pinot Noir (70%) in the blend, this 2007 is 'unusually elegant and structurally fine-boned' (WA). With a 'complex, multi-faceted personality' (AG), lemon confit, dried flowers, sage, mint, crushed rocks, almond and ginger are but a few of the aromas given off by this 'beautiful' (WA) R. D. 2007. While long and penetrating, it is still very 'tightly coiled' (WA) with many years of life ahead, Galloni believing it will cellar up to 2047.
The very concept of Bollinger’s R. D. releases, or 'Recently Disgorged', is inspired in part by the old Champenoise custom of especially disgorging a bottle from the cellar to mark a special occasion. Now done to mark the best vintages, this 2007 releases pays homage to the first ever release of this now legendary prestige cuvée, R.D. 1952, when the house was still run by the pioneering Madame Lilly Bollinger. Marked by using a similar beautiful aluminum label that graced the debut rendition of this wine, Kelley believes it underlines 'what is a real and not merely superficial commitment to artisanal traditions' in Champagne.
Offered today at only £625 per case IB, the Bollinger R. D. 2007 is undoubtedly one of the Champagne releases of the year. Representing just 1% of Bollinger’s production, as back vintages of R. D. become scarce in the secondary market, they start to command a significant premium. As such, the 2007 appears to be an attractively priced release when compared to back vintages, as seen in the table below.
