Champagne
Champagne, the epitome of elegance and celebration, is widely regarded as the pinnacle of sparkling wines. As one of the most prestigious wine regions in the world, Champagne has captured the hearts of wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs with its exceptional quality, refined craftsmanship, and iconic vineyards.
Historically, Champagne has been dominated by some world-acclaimed Champagne House, which source grapes and harvest from Champagne growers. These famous Grandes Marques include Louis Roederer (Cristal), Dom Pérignon, Krug, Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Bollinger, all of them are revered for their notable names that display unrivalled winemaking prestige and pedigree.
In the recent decade, the emerging Grower Champagne trend in Champagne is shaking up the industry by challenging the dominance of the big Champagne houses. These small-scale producers, also known as "Récoltant-Manipulant" or RM, grow their own grapes and produce their own Champagne, showcasing the unique terroir and character of their vineyards. Jacques Selosse, Ulysse Collin, and Champagne Vilmart & Cie are among the most prominent names in this trend, producing some truly artisanal and terroir-driven Champagnes.
Champagne is primarily made from three main grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. These grapes are carefully selected and blended to create a harmonious and complex flavour profile. Chardonnay contributes elegance, freshness, and finesse, while Pinot Noir adds structure, depth, and fruitiness. Pinot Meunier brings a touch of roundness and vibrancy to the blend.
The region of Champagne is divided into several distinct sub-regions, including Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs, and Vallée de la Marne. Each sub-region has its unique terroir, characterized by variations in soil composition and microclimates, which influence the style and character of the wines produced.
Champagne offers various styles, from non-vintage blends to vintage cuvées and prestigious prestige cuvées. While Non-vintage Champagnes typically epitomise the house style, the vintage Champagnes are made from grapes harvested in one particular year (top vintages such as 1996, 2002, 2008 etc), in which these wines showcase the unique characteristics of the specific vintage.
The prestige cuvées, often the flagship wines of the renowned Champagne houses, are the pinnacle of excellence. These exceptional Champagnes are created using the finest grapes, the most meticulous winemaking techniques and often benefit from extended ageing to achieve unparalleled complexity and finesse.
Champagne is synonymous with celebration, elegance, and luxury. Its effervescent charm and timeless appeal have made it the drink of choice for countless special occasions and memorable moments. With its rich history, iconic vineyards, and unrivalled quality, Champagne continues to captivate wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.
Champagne

产品名 | 地区 | 数量 | 分数 | 价格 | |||||
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香槟 | 1 | 94 (VN (AG)) |
保税价格
¥ 5,165.00 |
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)The NV (2017) Brut Nature Amplitude is 100% Chardonnay from old vines in Vrigny and Janvry. It is also one of the most impressive wines I have tasted from Lamblot. There's terrific energy and plenty of cut, not to mention tons of character. Readers should find a powerful, broad Champagne built on textural richness and saline-infused vibrancy. The 2017 finishes with real palate-staining intensity. The style is a bit rustic and assertive, but it all works. Disgorged: February 7, 2022. |
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香槟 | 1 | 94 (VN) |
保税价格
¥ 3,310.00 |
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Vinous (94)The NV Extra Brut Grand Cru Complantée emerges from a parcel in Avize interplanted with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Chardonnay. Exotic and beguiling in the glass, the Complantée is absolutely gorgeous. Kirsch, red plum, rose petal and spice give the wine striking aromatic intensity and lovely inner perfume. The red grapes seem especially expressive in this release. The Complantée is not an obvious wine, rather it is a Champagne of translucent finesse. This release is a blend of equal parts 2017 and 2016, vinified in neutral oak. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020. |
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香槟 | 1 | - |
保税价格
¥ 11,965.00 |
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香槟 | 1 | 97 (WA) |
保税价格
¥ 9,705.00 |
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Wine Advocate (97)The 2016 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avizoise derives from lieux-dits Les Robarts and Les Gros Yeux in Avize, two sites that are characterized by deeper clays than those in the parcels that inform Minéral. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of apple blossom, citrus zest, confit orange, freshly baked bread and warm biscuits, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with terrific concentration, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. This concentrated, vinous, chiseled Champagne is a remarkable wine! |
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香槟 | 2 | 96 (JS) |
保税价格
¥ 5,550.00 |
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James Suckling (96)Sharp and focused with very fine bubbles. Precise. Lots of almonds, lemon peel, crushed stones, white pepper and apricot stones, as well as white pears. This has captured so much energy, with a long and refined finish. 100% chardonnay. 3g/L dosage. Disgorged May 2022. Drink or hold. |
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香槟 | 1 | 96 (VN) |
保税价格
¥ 9,965.00 |
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Vinous (96)The 2013 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vénus is a gorgeous and eccentric wine. Sweet floral and minty overtones give the Vénus its distinctive high-toned profile. The richness and depth of this Chardonnay from a parcel planted in 1959 that has always been manually farmed, comes alive with a bit of time in the glass. The Vénus is such a special Champagne, as it is elusive and constantly changing in the glass as it shows a different side of its personality with each taste. I very much admire the sense of precision here. Vénus remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Champagne. No dosage. Disgorged: May, 2019. |
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香槟 | 1 | 95 (VN) |
保税价格
¥ 9,220.00 |
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Vinous (95)The 2015 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Vénus Grand Cru is sublime. Lemon confit, menthol, dried herbs and white pepper all meld together in the glass. More of a wine than Champagne, the Vénus is creamy and open-knit, with lovely freshness and plenty of character. No dosage. Disgorged: May, 2021. |
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香槟 | 1 | 98 (WA) |
保税价格
¥ 10,335.00 |
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Wine Advocate (98)From old vines in lieu-dit La Fosse that are planted at somewhat lower density (1.2 meters apart) but where there are consequently very few missing vines or replants, Agrapart's striking 2016 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vénus unwinds in the glass with scents of citrus oil, crisp stone fruit, toasted almonds, warm biscuits, orange zest and iodine. Full-bodied, concentrated and tightly wound, with terrific depth at the core, racy acids and a long, intensely saline finish, it's another brilliant wine from this benchmark grower-bottler. |
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香槟 | 1 | 92.0 |
保税价格
¥ 1,680.00 |
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"A lifted nose of ripe citrus with almonds and brioche that is extremely open and inviting. The palate treads the line between richness and refreshment perfectly. Round & generous fruit with a decent slug of dosage is balanced out with a super-fresh finish and spray of mineral at the last. 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay here meaning this Blanc de Blancs really over-delivers at the price point. An excellent house pour. " - Will Trotman, Head of UK Sales
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香槟 | 1 | - |
保税价格
¥ 2,235.00 |
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The Alexandre Bonnet Rose Riceys 2020 epitomises elegance and finesse from the esteemed Riceys appellation. Crafted meticulously in Burgundy’s renowned terroir, this Rose is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, hand-harvested to ensure optimal ripeness. Fermented in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, it preserves the vibrant citrus and red berry notes, complemented by subtle floral undertones. Alexandre Bonnet’s dedication to sustainable viticulture is evident in every bottle, reflecting his family’s legacy of excellence. The 2020 vintage showcases a delicate balance between acidity and fruit intensity, offering a refreshing palate with a lingering, graceful finish. Perfect for pairing with seafood or light poultry dishes, the Alexandre Bonnet Rose Riceys 2020 is a testament to artisanal craftsmanship and the rich heritage of Riceys. Discover the sophistication and charm that make this Rose a distinguished addition to any fine wine collection. |
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香槟 | 3 | - |
保税价格
¥ 13,165.00 |
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香槟 | 2 | 95 (DC) |
保税价格
¥ 8,395.00 |
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Decanter (95)This is a three-way assemblage: three grape varieties – and equal percentage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with 20% of Pinot Meunier – and a blend of 3 vintages, 2009, 2010 and 2012. The nose is full of flavours and rich with notes of white flowers and crème patissière. However, the palate is crisp, fresh and delicate with a lovely creamy texture. It is elegant, refined and very stylish (unlike the bottle!). It’s a pleasant combination of power and concentration blended with finesse and elegance. While the dosage is 9g/l, it feels much drier, more like a 5g/l and this probably due to the spinal cord of acidity. |
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香槟 | 1 | - |
保税价格
¥ 6,155.00 |
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Exuding sheer elegance and sophistication, the Barons de Rothschild Blanc De Blancs 2008 embodies the strength and distinction of the Rothschild family's prestigious Champagnes. This superior cuvée is crafted exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, predominantly sourced from esteemed Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs. Handpicked and prudently aged for a minimum of nine years, this refined Brut exhibits intoxicating blooms of white flowers, citrus, and crisp green apple, underscored by a subtle minerality. The fermentation in stainless steel vats and maturation in traditional chalk cellars bestow this champagne with its intense purity and a delicate finish. Barons de Rothschild Blanc De Blancs 2008 offers remarkable ageing potential while maintaining its characteristic precision and freshness. An investment in delightful complexity and luxurious pleasure, it is indeed a testament to Rothschild's commitment to crafting wines of unparalleled quality and refinement. |
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香槟 | 3 | - |
保税价格
¥ 3,210.00 |
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香槟 | 1 | - |
保税价格
¥ 1,265.00 |
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A family-run Champagne house with a history dating back to 1878, many of the grapes grown by Maison Bénard Pitois are bought by Bollinger but they keep selected parcels from their 1er Cru vines in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ to create this excellent value Brut Réserve and their other releases.  Made from a blend of 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, it was aged for 30 months on lees, double the usual Non-Vintage ageing period of 15 months, and elegant brioche and almond complexity really shines through. It was also partly aged in wooden barrels, which has given it the richness.. |
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香槟 | 7 | - |
保税价格
¥ 3,505.00 |
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Expertly crafted, the Benoit Dehu La Rue des Noyers Extra Brut NV is a prestigious treat for fine wine devotees. This remarkable creation is the brainchild of passionate vigneron, Benoit Dehu, who hails from a long line of vintners dating back eight generations. He is known for his unwavering dedication to stringent biodynamic principles, reviving the art of winemaking in the Fossoy region of France. The Benoit Dehu La Rue des Noyers Extra Brut NV is made from organically grown Pinot Meunier grapes, harvested from a single plot, 'La Rue des Noyers.' This champagne is vinified in oak barrels, then rests for eight years before disgorgement, giving it an exquisite flavour profile. Self-defined as a 'Vigneron Champagne,' it insightfully represents Dehu's meticulous nature and the expressive terroir of the Vallée de la Marne. Expect luxuriant aromas of baked apples and brioche, a refined structure and a tantalisingly complex palate. A tasting experience that eloquently tells the story of its unique origin. |
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香槟 | 1 | - |
保税价格
¥ 8,505.00 |
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Revel in the exquisite taste of Bereche et Fils Grand Cru Cramant 2016, a distinguished Champagne that embodies the marvellous pedigree of its native Côte des Blancs vineyards in France. This luxurious creation from the celebrated house of Bereche et Fils masterfully encapsulates their centuries-old winemaking wisdom. A unique blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot noir, the 2016 vintage underwent a traditional vinification in oak barrels, an exquisite instance where meticulous craftsmanship meets prime ingredients. Noteworthy for its tantalising complexity, this golden elixir presents a symphony of rich flavours, marrying floral notes with hints of citrus and brioche, punctuated by an enviable minerality. Its persistent finish is an affirmation of the divine quality one can anticipate from Bereche et Fils Grand Cru Cramant 2016. A manifestation of the grandeur of French terroir, this sparkling wine is a consummate choice for connoisseurs seeking the true essence of Champagne. |
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香槟 | 1 | 91 (VN) |
保税价格
¥ 4,645.00 |
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Vinous (91)The 2015 Rilly La Montagne, 100% Pinot Noir, is soft, supple and forward. Exotic floral notes, passion fruit, chamomile and spice grace this pretty, open-knit Champagne. My impression is that the 2015 is going to be more rewarding over the near and medium-term rather than over a longer period of time. Dosage is 4.8 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 7, 2019. |
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香槟 | 2 | 97 (DC) |
保税价格
¥ 4,580.00 |
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Decanter (97)A blend of 65% Pinot Noir consisting of Premier and Grand Crus from the Montagne de Reims and the Vallee de la Marne and 35% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs. Significantly, this has nine years ageing on its lees (longer than some Prestige Cuvees), the 2008 was first released onto the global market back in March 2019. With an Extra Brut dosage of 4g/l, this is a highly expressive, confident and convincing interpretation of the vintage. Right now, it is youthfully sharp and focused with fine salinity, depth, acidity and balance, and as such is already extremely approachable. The flavour spectrum encompasses toast, oyster shell, citrus, cream and a flinty, mineral depth. There’s supreme balance and elegance here, combined with a hidden underlying power that will continue to emerge and broaden with time. The finish is dry and long. |
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香槟 | 1 | 97 (DC) |
保税价格
¥ 4,195.00 |
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Decanter (97)A blend of 65% Pinot Noir consisting of Premier and Grand Crus from the Montagne de Reims and the Vallee de la Marne and 35% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs. Significantly, this has nine years ageing on its lees (longer than some Prestige Cuvees), the 2008 was first released onto the global market back in March 2019. With an Extra Brut dosage of 4g/l, this is a highly expressive, confident and convincing interpretation of the vintage. Right now, it is youthfully sharp and focused with fine salinity, depth, acidity and balance, and as such is already extremely approachable. The flavour spectrum encompasses toast, oyster shell, citrus, cream and a flinty, mineral depth. There’s supreme balance and elegance here, combined with a hidden underlying power that will continue to emerge and broaden with time. The finish is dry and long. |
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香槟 | 2 | 96 (HWC) |
保税价格
¥ 3,565.00 |
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Halliday Wine Companion (96)Comprises 40/33/27% pinot noir/chardonnay/pinot meunier, 73% grands and premiers crus. The low dosage of 2g/l and the warm vintage allow the fruit-based flavours free rein - white peach, Granny Smith apple and nectarine. The finish and aftertaste remain fresh and long. A house in grand form. |
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香槟 | 2 | 95 (DC) |
保税价格
¥ 2,040.00 |
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Decanter (95)A fine straw-gold colour with great finesse of bubble flow and mousse. Joyful aromas of apple blossom and ripe pear. A full, defined palate demonstrates richness that will help to give this a long life in the cellar. |
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香槟 | 1 | 93 (JS) |
保税价格
¥ 2,485.00 |
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James Suckling (93)Cinnamon and dried nutmeg add to the experience of bread dough and rose petals. Flavorful on the medium-bodied palate and finely poised with bright acidity. Medium-long on the finish. Drink now. |
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香槟 | 1 | 19+ (MJ) |
保税价格
¥ 9,605.00 |
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Matthew Jukes (19+)Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine. |
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香槟 | 1 | 19+ (MJ) |
保税价格
¥ 8,445.00 |
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Matthew Jukes (19+)Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine. |
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香槟 | 1 | 98 (DC) |
保税价格
¥ 8,190.00 |
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Decanter (98)A slightly flinty and vibrant bouquet alongside complex aromas of red berries, herbs and lemon, with fresh menthol notes coming through with some air. The palate is wonderful and elegant, with a vinous texture and a superb, calcareous finish. A blend of 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir (including 9% vinified as red wine), this Champagne, which has a dosage of 7g/L, is made for ageing. |
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香槟 | 1 | 19+ (MJ) |
保税价格
¥ 7,300.00 |
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Matthew Jukes (19+)Made from 55% Chardonnay (Chouilly, Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant) and 45% Pinot Noir (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Verzenay) and featuring only 2.9% oak, this wine spent 115 months on its lees and was bottled with a 3.8g/L dosage. 8.3% red wine from Mareuil was used, which is a little more than they use in the NV. The thinking here is it needs just a touch more depth of colour and intensity to keep its colour as it ages. We tasted in bottle and magnum with the same comparison of crown-sealed v cork-sealed and, again, the comparison was equally enjoyable. The bottles were superbly clean, amazingly delicate, and resonant, with crystal-clean fraise de bois notes dominating. Not surprisingly, with a Chardonnay-dominant recipe, the finish brings acres of chalk to scour the taste buds with glorious minerality and tension. Both the bottle and magnum have this superb engine on display, and the main difference at this early moment in the magnum’s life is that it appears, although the difference is not as stark as it is in Louis, to have more power pushed forwards on the palate. Both formats are superbly calm and controlled, and a vault of power in the core will send this wine down the line for a good couple of decades. Do I have a preference? Yes, with Elisabeth, I feel the bottle format will be the most alluring for the short to medium term and with Louis, I cannot resist the magnums! I scored both wines equally because they are beauties, and I cannot pick between them so that the choice will come down to your menu or your guests’ preferences. |
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香槟 | 1 | 20++ (MJ) |
保税价格
¥ 6,820.00 |
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Matthew Jukes (20++)Made from 100% Chardonnay and coming from Chouilly (40%), Cramant (33%), Mesnil-sur-Oger (22%) and Avize (7%), with one-third fermented and aged in old oak barrels and a dosage of 7 g/L, this is becoming a relatively familiar recipe for this elite House and yet there is nothing familiar about the flavour of this epic new release. Billecart-Salmon’s elite Blanc de Blancs is named after Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who co-founded this illustrious Champagne house over two centuries ago with her husband, Nicolas François Billecart. This is the third release of Louis, and it is, again, completely different in shape and size to the beautiful 2006 (19/20) and crystalline 2007 (19.5/20). The oak was enhanced from 5% in the 2006 vintage to 50% in the 2007 and now it has been knocked back a touch, and this certainly serves to enhance the splendour of the sensational 2008 vintage fruit. I didn’t note that Avize fruit was used in the 2007, but I think it was in the 2006. Either way, I am confident that this tinkering around the edges has heightened the attack of this incredible wine. The delivery here is something to behold. It is clear from the nose that this wine is made with a horologist’s precision, and while everything starts quietly, there is an uncommon determination here that keeps on coming, leaving you panting with pleasure. On the palate, 2008 Louis perfectly balances extreme tension and white-knuckle drama with the most enchanting and serene jasmine, white tea, and linden blossom notes. It seems mesmerisingly composed from one side of the glass and hellbent on rearranging your taste buds via a national grid-sized electric shock from the other. I am not suggesting that this wine is too young to approach now because, at fourteen years of age, you can drink it, just be aware that this might be one of the wines with the most potential I have ever tasted from this incredible estate. As always with Billecart, the bubbles are minuscule, and the colour is as pale as can be, so there are no particular visual clues as to the greatness in the glass, but once the perfume takes hold and it pulls you to the glass, you are entirely within its control. I venture that Blanc de Blancs fans will go gaga when they taste this wine. It further improves on the magnificence of the two preceding vintages, and whether or not this is to do with the oak regime or the exact percentage of fruit drawn from each of the Grands Crus villages, I don’t know. However, I am certain that 2008 is a jaw-droppingly serious vintage and eclipses both 2006 and 2007 in terms of sheer class. Therefore, even at this early age, I am convinced that this is the birth of another perfect wine from Billecart-Salmon, and it is certainly the finest value 20/20 from this magnificent House, too. |
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香槟 | 1 | 96 (JS) |
保税价格
¥ 6,180.00 |
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James Suckling (96)This is showing an array of almonds, frangipani, dried lemons, apricots, pastries and white chocolate, evolving to salted caramel. Fantastic complexity and all in balance, with firm focus yet open and delicious. Creamy, very fine bubbles. Salty, turning chalky and mineral at the end. Drink or hold. |
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香槟 | 1 | 99 (CG) |
保税价格
¥ 8,685.00 |
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The Champagne Guide (99)"(disgorged in 2012; 60% Montagne de Reims pinot noir, 40% Côte des Blancs chardonnay; 18% barrel-fermented in old oak casks; partial malolactic fermentation; 4g/L dosage)... Even at 13 years of age it upholds brilliant primary definition of icy lemon citrus, with only subtle graceful evolution of nougat and butter, promising decades of potential yet. As always, the greatness of Billecart is proclaimed not by impact or power, but by slowly rising complexity and profound chalk mineral presence. Its cascade of minerality is very fine, to the point of silkiness, yet simultaneously poised and confident. Delightful poise and intricate craftsmanship proclaim one of the great Billecarts of the modern era, a champagne with many characters and subplots to reveal, to be enjoyed slowly in the presence of the most intimate company--and ideally not for at least another decade. |