Jancis Robinson (18)

A carpenter’s workshop, filled with the scent of freshly sawn and planed wood. Sweet tobacco. A distinctly feral, ‘animal’ smell. Dried meadow flowers and hay. Dried orange-peel dust. Something almost lactic. It changes from sip to sip, moment to moment. First dry, then sweet. Bitter, for a second, then turning tender. Jagged edges melt silky smooth from along the slim ribbon of its structure. Demanding and volatile; then tucking charms into your palm. The intensity of the flavours – explosive bitter-sweet oranges, hit-gingered quince, cinnamon and cumin, sour cherries in Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, decayed-wood dust – is startling, and yet the wine is fine-boned, almost ethereal. William Chester Minor, surgeon, wordsmith, schizophrenic and one of the greatest contributors to the Oxford English Dictionary, was attributed the quote, ‘Listen to the leaves scratch the air. Sometimes it sounds like gunfire. Sometimes like applause.’ I thought of those words when I tasted this wine. Food pairings: spanakopita; cauliflower pakora with spiced onion chutney; welsh rarebit; fried grouse with orange sauce.

Wine Spectator (94)

This is an extremely full-bodied, powerful wine, but it still retains a classy balance. Deep ruby, with chocolate and berry aromas, full-bodied, with anise and dried cherry flavors, full, hard tannins and a long finish. Good now but a few more yearsof bottle age would improve it. Best from 1990 through 1993. -JS

Jancis Robinson (19.5)

This and three other wines are still available on the island, but only released by John Cossart sparingly and at a very high price. They originate from the 1820s, held first in wood, then demi-johns and the remnant finally bottled off between the 1920s and the 1960s. A famous wine. Tawny, rose colour, very pale rim. Light marine, very Atlantic nose. Wonderfully soft, fragrant swish over the palate. Then great grip. Grand and old indeed! Pretty cheesy on the end but this is surely the island in a bottle. So clean and tasty. Ocean spray. Lone yachtsmen would love this!

Wine Advocate (99)

Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1963 Nacional's opaque purple color is remarkable, looking more like a 1992 than a 33-year old port. The wine possessed a fabulously smoky, cassis, black-cherry, peppery nose. After thirty minutes in the glass, fruitcake notes and more evolved aromas emerged. This port is so concentrated it defies belief, with extraordinary balance, and, like its two siblings, well-integrated alcohol and tannin. The impression is one of a silky, succulent, voluptuously-textured mouthful of exceptionally extracted port. This is a legend in the making. In 30-40 years it may well be considered, along with the 1931, as one of the greatest ports ever produced. Those lucky few with a bottle or two should plan to hold onto them for another decade before pulling the cork. It, too, is a hundred-year port.

Wine Spectator (99)

This sports serious heft, with a core of brooding fig jam, ganache, Christmas pudding and pastis-soaked black currant notes, followed by a powerhouse finish of smoldering charcoal and tar. The feel is remarkably velvety and rounded overall, with a mouthwatering licorice root element adding to the already considerable length. Best from 2026 through 2056.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2004 Vintage Port Nacional is a declared Vintage Port aged for 18 months in wooden casks. An old vines field blend, it comes in at just 79 grams per liter of residual sugar, rather dry on paper and in perception. Typically graceful and leaning on elegance in the mid-palate, it is laced with some herbs and rhubarb up front. It is very aromatic and it opens with a distinctive flavor profile compared to others in the Vintage Port lineup that I had open. In the mid-palate, it seems like a very fine table wine in some ways, showing remarkable finesse and focus, and a rather dry finish. It is completely closed and gives little. The structure and the underlying concentration are all obvious, though. They are classic and they make this a cellar candidate from the get-go. Despite being over a decade old, this is tight, firm, powerful and too young. After playing around with it for several days, I saw it finally begin to blossom, to show fresh fruit and something besides austerity. By the end of the week, it was far more evolved, showing its wonderful concentration, increasingly interesting intensity of flavor and a long finish. It is never obvious, but it is always quite gorgeous. This is an old school Port on an old school schedule. It needs cellaring. If extended aeration makes it at least a bit approachable, it is not exactly showing all it has and all it can be. Be patient--even if it is more approachable in a decade or so, that won't be even close to its peak. If you're patient and young, give it a try around 2040.

Wine Advocate (100)

The 2017 Vintage Port Nacional is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz, aged for 18 months in old wood. It comes in at 99 grams of residual sugar and was bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in wooden vats. In 2016, I might've made an argument that the regular Noval was better. In this vintage, this seems to be a clear choice, granting that Ports change constantly in their youth. Its siblings at all levels in the last few vintages are very fine, but this is an indisputable benchmark that seems to better them all. Rich and vibrant, this has plenty of stuffing and flavor, more than the regular Noval. Then, it adds layer after layer of power. A couple of hours of air makes both the flavors and tannins more intense. It is simply gripping—yet also remarkably fresh. It's a great Noval, and one of the shortlist candidates for Wine of the Vintage. There were 200 cases produced.

Mark Squires (99)

This old wine was acquired by Quinta do Vallado and said to be an 1866 Colheita (although Francisco Spratley Ferreira of the winery tells me he can't honestly say for sure if it is a true single-vintage Colheita, which is why it is marketed just as "Tributa"), pre-phylloxera vines. It was bottled for Antonia Adelaide Ferreira's 200th anniversary--a woman who built a lot of Douro and was the ancestor of Vallado's owners. Francisco told me (with some typos corrected) that "we think it is a true colheita, but it's impossible to be sure... We bought this wine and the owner said to me that [he] never touched ... this wine last 50 years! We believe that with this concentration and baume (13,5), this is really very old and wasn't "refrescado" (add young wines to fill the barrel).... At same time it' s amazing the acidity, especially thinking in this baume! The wine only was bottled last weeks!" I've run into my share of really old Ports recently--1863 Niepoort, Sequeira, the NV Wine and Soul "5G"--all were exceptional and all were very different. This would be my winner of that group. If you are really loaded, keep reading. Very dark in color and far thicker than the 5g (although not, perhaps, as vibrant), this is remarkably thick and viscous--there seems to be no question that it is old and concentrated. It is very complex, too. Laced with molasses and dark chocolate, and a touch of charcoal, it is enlivened by a big hit of acidity. The texture is quite caressing and sexy. Its age shows mostly in its thick demeanor. It reminds me of some century old Moscatels I've had in Southern Portugal. It is remarkably sweet and fresh in most other respects. It is a wonderful experience. There is bad news. You could predict this, huh? There were 1,300 bottles produced--and they are coming in special decanters running around $3,000 per 750ml bottle. (No, I didn't get one of those bottles, but I did get a sample taste!)

Vinous (96)

The 1963 Taylor's Vintage Port is lucid in colour, very well defined with wild strawberry, Clementine, leather and tobacco scents, one of the few to contain a floral element. The palate has a cashmere texture with wild strawberry, cherry and a touch of liquorice, leading to a dense and structured finish. Over several bottles encountered, the palate always seems to offer more than the aromatics. Tasted in the Factory House in Porto for Taylor's - The Story of a Classic Port House book.