James Suckling (93)

Cinnamon and dried nutmeg add to the experience of bread dough and rose petals. Flavorful on the medium-bodied palate and finely poised with bright acidity. Medium-long on the finish. Drink now.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Decanter (97)

An enticingly rewarding nose of apricot, flint and toast leads to a palate that's just as good and even more developed, with honey, brioche marzipan and bruised apple notes. It has super tension and drive. Compelling, delicious and distinctive.

Matthew Jukes (18.5)

The question I am most asked every year is, “Is Whispering Angel any good?”. My answer has never changed. Yes, of course, this wine is a triumph. It is made to exacting standards, and while there is more competition these days than ever, Whispering Angel and its Esclans portfolio pals still sit atop the pile. And while some think that you can save a few quid elsewhere, and they might be right, nothing comes close to Rock Angel. Instead of defending Whispering Angel’s honour, I prefer to advise curious rosé fiends to spend a fiver more and drink Rock. Rock is not a turbo-charged version of Whispering, although that is the line most people peddle. They say this because it sees some oak, making it seem like a Whispering+. But to me, Rock Angel is more clearly related to the Estate range of wines – those that come from the Chateau d’Esclans itself. All these wines (Chateau d’Esclans, Les Clans and Garrus) are made using oak, and their fruit is of the highest quality; hence, pricing ranges from £40-£140. Rock Angel swings in under £25 if you search hard enough, and I believe it is the finest value, ‘grand-tasting’ rosé around. It has a stunning volume of fruit, seamless, indulgent and impressively long.

Decanter (97)

With cinnamon, orange, nutmeg characters, this is full-bodied but still fresh, with a real depth on the palate. It finishes dry and savoury, with dry spices, rose and a touch of meatiness. There’s some tannin on the tongue on the finish, too. A deeply complex rosé that could only be from Tavel. 24 months in foudres, then 24 months in bottle before release. Gently cloudy, and taking on a slightly orange note to the colour - showing some age.

Vinous (95)

The NV (2016) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée is a classy, gorgeous wine. Bright, sculpted and finely chiseled, the 2016 has so much to offer. Chalk, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks perk up the red berry fruit. Sweet floral notes emerge with a bit of time in the glass. In this vintage, the Rosé is wonderfully translucent and so expressive. The NV Rosé is 100% Pinot Noir from 45-50 year-old vines in Vertus, done in steel. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2020.

Vinous (95)

Taittinger's 2006 Comtes de Champagne Rosé has come along nicely over the last six months. Intensely perfumed, Pinot-inflected aromatics carry through the mid-palate and finish as the 2006 shows off its depth and pure energy. Veins of chalky minerality give the red berry and cranberry flavors an extra kick of energy. The 2006 is both powerful and delicate at the same, with crystalline precision and fabulous depth. Hints of orange peel, mint, cinnamon and cranberry add further shades of nuance on the complete, beautifully articulated finish.

James Suckling (99)

The light rust and amber color is enticing. Aromas of dried rose petals, cinnamon and nutmeg. Hints of dried meat, smoke and sage. Full body and compact, creamy texture. So fine and delicious. Great, subtle and complex flavors. More like a lightly aged, premier cru Volnay, but with the magic of Champagne. Drink now.